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Short Summary
Main recommendation: install a hot-and-cold mixing shower valve (the Rielle Pro Line) using PEX plumbing, with the valve body mounted on a 2x4 framed wall, and do not use a SharkBite fitting on this particular valve because it does not leave enough room for the valve interior to work. The video walks through soldering a copper cap, setting the valve height and depth, drilling supply holes, crimping PEX, and mounting the slide bar and drop line. It also warns that the rough-in valve should be swapped for the finished trim kit right away to avoid hot water backing into the toilet line.
Key Points
- Avoid SharkBite fittings on this valve: when fully compressed, the fitting pops off because there isn't enough room for the valve interior to function.
- The valve has a hot and cold mixing body with one outlet, plus a second outlet, and comes with a 3/4 inch line for crimping or a 1/2 inch piece of male copper that can take copper line directly or a stopper fitting soldered on.
- The presenter notes that the valve stem is too short for a SharkBite connection, suggesting a longer stem modification would make SharkBite viable in a wall with rear access.
- The rough-in valve includes a temporary plug; if the finished trim kit is not installed at the same time, hot water can travel up the cold line and into the toilet.
- Standard O-ring crimp rings slide off PEX too easily, making the crimp a two-hand operation that is difficult to hold in place.
- The finished valve is a two-piece installation: one piece slides over the other, is tightened finger-tight and then a quarter turn with a wrench.
Details Worth Noting
- Concrete instructions:
- Solder the 1/2 inch copper cap onto the valve before framing, then let it cool before handling. Use a soldering kit with flux paste and solder; scratch the inside of the cap to create grooves, wipe on flux, heat the copper (not the solder area directly, but the joint area until solder melts), and feed solder rod into the side until it is drawn in.
- Protect the floor under the torch and soldering area, since dripping solder is hot.
- Set the valve height by pretending to stand in the shower and reaching up to the desired handle height. Set the wall depth at 3 inches to finish, plus wallboard for drywall or tile for tiled walls.
- Frame with a 2x4 at 2.5 inches from the front (lumber at 3/8 inch thickness as indicated) so the valve body cannot twist or shift; mark the valve centerline on the framing.
- Drill a 3/4 inch hole for the water supply (a self-feeding auger bit was used for extra clearance).
- Mark a 1/4 inch distance on PEX, crimp with the color-coded crimper and a go/no-go gauge marked 3/8 and 3/4; since the job used half inch PEX, that size was verified with the gauge.
- Use a testing gauge to check each joint for leaks before closing the wall.
- Use flooring screws (stronger than drywall screws, and they do not protrude through the far side) to mount the drop bar.
- Install the finished trim kit immediately after the rough-in valve to avoid hot water backflow.
- When installing the finished valve, tighten finger-tight and then one quarter turn with a wrench.
- Before closing the wall, pressurize the lines and check for drips; the presenter recommends flushing the lines before final assembly to clear debris.
- The shower setup uses an adjustable slide bar; the hose attaches to the shower head, which releases from the slide bar, and runs down to a drop fitting.
Bottom Line
Before closing the wall, verify that the finished trim kit is installed with the rough-in valve and that no SharkBite is used on this valve, since both the fitting and the trim sequence can cause failures.
