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Short Summary
Main recommendation: Install the Riel Pro pressure balance valve finishing trim, including the tub spout diverter and rain shower overhead, by mounting the surface plate first, fitting the valve extension and trim, then setting the tub spout and shower arm with careful, finger-tight fittings before silicone sealing and testing. The video is a hands-on walkthrough by a plumber-style presenter, emphasizing careful torque on plastic parts and leaving installation options open for future changes.
Key Points
- Mount the surface-mounted plate before other pieces, since extra light is needed to locate the valve holes; set it finger-tight at first.
- Add the valve extension so its pins seat in the cradle; once the pins sink in, the fit is correct.
- Snap the decorative chrome trim on without screws, and snug its screws without overtightening, since the plastic will break.
- Install the tub spout as a slip-on after backing off its Allen-key set screw, and cut the supply pipe about three inches out to keep future options open.
- Use Teflon tape (about ten wraps) and thread sealer paste on the shower arm connection, then tighten it snug with a wrench fit before adjusting direction, using a screwdriver through the wall-side hole for extra leverage when aiming the arm.
Details Worth Noting
- Concrete instructions:
- Check the manufacturer's instructions first; this system is tightened finger-tight rather than with a wrench, and a quarter turn is enough for the valve assembly.
- Wear a glove when handling the brass valve fittings, which the video describes as very sharp.
- Remove the temporary test plug and discard it before installing the extension.
- Before turning on the water, install the face plate, handle, and set-screw cover; a missing handle could let the valve assembly fly out under pressure.
- Dry the grout line thoroughly and lightly buff the tile edge with sand cloth before applying silicone, so the silicone sticks and the gasket is not damaged.
- Shower head neck: snug finger-tight, then use a wrench only on the flat sections of the fixture, to avoid a drip into the tub.
- Shower head flange: it is a compression fit with small teeth on the back; wiggle it on and push it into place.
- The valve trim has a drain hole near the bottom front; the video advises installing the valve with about one degree of slope so any water inside drains out.
- The surface plate's gasket seals against tile, and a silicone bead may or may not be needed depending on tile condition; subway tile and inconsistent grout can make sealing harder.
- The Riel Pro line offers a two-jet shower head (shown) and three-jet and rain shower options, with manual control.
- The presenter used a temporary test cap on a half-inch copper line as a shut-off and tile-cutting reference system he buys at a specialty plumbing store, separate from confirming the tub spout slip-on with the manufacturer.
Bottom Line
Installing this trim is mostly about careful, finger-tight assembly with minimal tools, plus leaving spare pipe and clean sealing surfaces so the job holds up now and for future changes.
