Short Summary
Main recommendation: To stop a running toilet, first shut off the angle stop, then check and clean or replace the flapper, and if the problem persists, rebuild or replace the fill valve. Roger Wakefield, a plumber who says he has over 38 years of experience, presents this as a DIY repair that can save money. The video shows the process on a toilet whose back has been cut open for visibility.
Key Points
- Check the flapper first: look at its rim and the flush valve seat for cracks or nicks, since a faulty flapper lets water leak through and keeps the fill valve running.
- If the flush valve has cracks or nicks, the speaker says it needs replacing, which he describes as a separate video topic.
- Flappers are inexpensive and snap into place; buy one designed for your specific toilet.
- If the flapper is fine, the fill valve is the likely cause; first try rebuilding it by cleaning out debris in the diaphragm valve.
- If cleaning does not fix the problem, replace the fill valve.
- The speaker says the repair is not very hard and needs only a couple of tools, mainly channel locks.
Details Worth Noting
- Concrete instructions:
- Shut off the water at the angle stop under the toilet. If it is a quarter-turn stop, turn it a quarter turn. If it is an older screw-in style, turn it off slowly. Confirm the water is off before disconnecting the supply hose, so water does not spray everywhere.
- Remove the tank lid and set it aside somewhere safe so it does not crack.
- Place a towel under the connection, loosen the nut, and disconnect the supply line from the angle stop. Expect some water from the fill valve to come out. Move the hose out of the way.
- Check the flapper and flush valve seat. If the flapper is worn, unhook it from the handle chain, and snap in a replacement made for your toilet. Make sure it sits up against the top so the toilet flushes properly when full.
- To rebuild the fill valve, unscrew the fill valve's top screw, lift and turn it to remove it, and take it apart. Check the diaphragm valve, the small screw, and the pin for debris. Rinse thoroughly, using soapy water if needed.
- Optional flush: reconnect the hose, crack the angle stop open just barely, and let water flush debris out. Cover the valve with a rag or your hand to control spray.
- Reassemble exactly as it came apart, including the small needle-like pin. Lift and turn it back into place.
- To replace the fill valve, drain the remaining water with a wet vac or large sponge. Keep the towel under the toilet to catch moisture. Remove the old valve and install the new one.
- When installing, set the new valve to the same height as the old one if it worked well. Make sure the rubber washer is on the bottom, slide it in, snug the nut, and attach the fill tube.
- Set the float height so the water level is about a half inch to an inch below the overflow tube.
- Reconnect the supply line, snug it so it does not leak, and turn the water back on. Let the tank fill until it stops at the proper level. Replace the tank lid carefully.
- Porcelain tank lids crack and break easily, so handle them carefully.
- The speaker says a single fill valve diaphragm cleaning often fixes the problem.
Bottom Line
A running toilet is usually caused by either a leaking flapper or a fill valve, and checking the flapper first is the simplest starting point before moving to the fill valve.





