digest
Short Summary
Main recommendation: Build the classic wooden crate in one of two versions: the easy version using four 1x3s with a miter saw, clamps, jigsaw, and drill (no table saw needed), or the advanced, lighter version using three 1x3s with a table saw and resawing. The video shows the full process for both, and he mentions plans are available.
Key Points
- The easy version suits a first-time builder: it needs no table saw and uses a mobile workbench the presenter built.
- The advanced version is lighter, with thinner sides and bottom slats, and needs only three 1x3s.
- Cutting all pieces at once is justified here because only two board sizes are needed, despite the presenter normally advising against it.
- He says the home center had some really crappy, warped boards this time, but scrap built into the project let him cut away the bad sections.
- Glue joints and clamping (pipe clamps, F clamps, and cauls wrapped in packing tape) keep edge-joined end panels flat while the glue sets.
Details Worth Noting
- Concrete instructions:
- Easy version: Attach an auxiliary fence (a board) to the miter saw and use a stop block to cut matching short pieces to the same length.
- Edge join the short boards for end panels: run a thin bead of Titebond yellow wood glue along three edges, spread it thin, and push the boards flush. Do not overtighten pipe clamps, since boards will spring apart; use cauls with packing tape to keep boards flat, and F clamps to finish. Let the glue dry at least one hour.
- Finger holes (optional): trace a cap or round object for curves, drill an entry hole, cut with a jigsaw, then sand the inside edges smooth.
- Assembly: glue and screw the bottom slats, clamping pieces to hold the frame square and keep ends flush with the sides. Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent splitting.
- Advanced version: cross cut end panel pieces slightly longer than final size, then rip about 1/8 inch from each edge with the rip fence for cleaner seams during edge joining.
- Resaw slats on the table saw: set the rip fence so the board splits down the middle into two equal thicknesses, use a featherboard and a gripper with an extra block for downward pressure, and finish the cut with a push stick.
- Handles: drill two holes with a Forstner bit, ease sharp edges with a 1/4-inch roundover bit on a router, and fasten with glue and 1-1/4-inch finishing nails instead of screws, which are too aggressive and split thin wood.
- Resawing on a table saw is an advanced procedure; the presenter advises skipping it if uncomfortable. Alternatives include a bandsaw, planing stock thinner, buying thinner lumber, or using 1/4-inch plywood.
- The presenter left the crate unfinished, noting that crates look best that way, though paint or stain is an option.
- A slightly crooked center slat and an offset screw (to avoid hitting another screw) are presented by him as adding rustic character without weakening the crate.
Bottom Line
The easy version is the practical starting point for beginners, while the advanced version rewards those with a table saw who want a lighter, more traditional crate.
