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Short Summary
Main recommendation: Own both a drill and an impact driver, since a drill handles drilling and general driving while an impact driver makes driving screws far easier and faster. The video explains how to set up and use each tool, which bits to choose, and how to avoid common screw and wood problems.
Key Points
- A drill is for drilling holes and driving screws, using a keyless chuck (or chuck key) and a variable-speed trigger; slower speeds are needed for driving screws to avoid stripping them.
- An impact driver only drives screws or bolts (it cannot drill), uses a locking quick-change collet for hex-shank drivers, and delivers rapid impact blows for much more torque, especially in hard wood.
- The impact driver keeps the bit seated in the screw head, reducing slip-out and cam-out damage on Phillips screws, and can back out screws with stripped or scrunched heads.
- Battery drills are the convenient default; he says you should always have two batteries so one can charge while the other is in use. Corded drills suit heavy, continuous work.
- Bit choice matters: brad point bits suit woodworking best, while twist bits are cheap and general-purpose, and spade bits are rough-construction only.
Details Worth Noting
- Concrete instructions:
- Keyless chuck: unscrew the chuck to open the jaws wide enough, insert the bit just deep enough for the jaws to grab, then tighten by hand (the video holds the bit and chuck in the left hand and squeezes the trigger until tight). If the bit wobbles, reseat it.
- Before drilling, press the bit against the wood, pull the trigger, start slowly until the bit grabs, then speed up. Keep the drill spinning as you back it out.
- If a precise hole location is needed without a brad point bit, make a divot first with an awl or thin punch.
- Use a slow speed to drive screws; fast speeds can strip or break them. Use gear one (slower, more torque) for jobs like lag screws into studs; gear two suits most drilling.
- Clutch: run test screws to find the correct torque setting, then leave it set for repeat work. Keep the clutch off with the drill setting for only a few screws.
- Pilot holes: drill them for most woodworking, hinges, and hardwood. On soft wood or rough construction, screws can be driven directly.
- Depth stop: wrap tape around the bit at the desired depth. To choose a pilot bit, pick a bit about the same diameter as the screw shank and check that only threads show beyond the bit.
- Countersink: after drilling, use a countersink bit for a flush head, and use beveled-head wood screws rather than round or pan heads.
- Right angle: screw two scrap boards together as a guide. To prevent tear-out on the exit side, clamp a scrap board to the back before drilling.
- Impact driver: push the collet forward, drop in the bit, and release. Slow down as the screw seats to finish torquing it in.
- Drill-then-drive: drill with the drill, then switch to the impact driver for the screws.
- Bit selection: he says he personally believes in quantity over quality for drill bits, noting a large set of hundreds of bits can be had for under $30. Forstner bits make large flat-bottom holes but are best on a drill press; if used handheld, clamp the board down, and use slower speeds for bigger bits.
- Impact driver pricing: he mentions one such kit, complete with two batteries, costs about $130, and manufacturers often sell drill/driver kits paired.
Bottom Line
A drill plus an impact driver covers nearly everything a home or woodworking shop needs, and the impact driver is the upgrade that makes screw driving noticeably easier.
