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Short Summary
Main recommendation: Build a router table top with a removable insert plate (Craig insert plate, leveled to a plywood sub-base) rather than drilling a simple hole, and add a split fence clamped to the table sides with a T-track and miter slot for accessories. The video documents the full build of a router table top sized 35 inches wide by 26 inches deep, with melamine top and plywood sub-base. The creator stresses sturdiness and deliberately chose the more featured design because this is his largest project of the year.
Key Points
- The simplest router table top is a hole drilled through the table with the router mounted underneath, but bit changes then require reaching under the table each time.
- A larger opening with a thinner insert plate is an improvement, and the creator chose an aftermarket Craig insert plate because it can be cut fully through and leveled with small levelers, avoiding a precise rabbet.
- The fence clamps onto the sides, slides anywhere on the table, and includes a split front fence adjustable for different bit sizes, plus a T-track for featherboards and stock blocks.
- A miter slot in the front accepts a table saw miter gauge; the creator forgot it until the end but was happy, since it was easy to round out the groove by running the fence against the router.
- Materials are 3/4 inch melamine for the top and 3/4 inch plywood for the sub-base and fence.
Details Worth Noting
- Concrete instructions:
- Cut the table opening using a template: trace the insert plate, sand and file the edges to the line, and test fit until it fits.
- Make the plywood sub-base larger than the opening, with extra margin near the leveler line, attach it to the melamine top with screws, then use a flush trim bit with a top bearing on the router to trim edges flush.
- For the fence, cut a groove for the T-track in the base board, drill a 3/8 inch hole through both halves of the fence face at equal distances from each side, and drill slots one inch from the router ends (a 2-inch slot) for adjustment.
- Make the side clamps from 2 by 2 oak blocks about 4 inches long, shaped with a slight curve, drilled with a 3/8 inch bolt hole and an elongated hole so the block can tip; secure with a washer, bolt, and star knobs under the table.
- Split the front fence in half and mount each piece with a washer, 3/8 inch bolt, washer, and wing nut.
- For dust collection, cut a plywood panel with a hole for the shop vac hose and attach it to the fence.
- The fence base is 36 inches long and the table is 35 inches wide by 26 inches deep.
- The creator made a 45-degree triangle brace for the fence back and glued an extra oak block where his initial sizing was off.
- The router is not yet mounted in this episode; a router lift is planned for the next episode.
Bottom Line
A removable insert plate, a split adjustable fence, and a T-track and miter slot make a router table far more practical than a simple drilled top, but the build depends on careful fitting and leveling.
