digest
Short Summary
Main recommendation: Build a crosscut sled for your table saw, a simple jig that supports both sides of the workpiece and runs in both miter slots to make accurate 90-degree crosscuts every time. Steve Ramsey argues it addresses the main shortcomings of the stock miter gauge and aftermarket miter gauges, which support only one side of the cut and can wobble or lose square.
Key Points
- The sled rides on two runners, one in each miter slot, so there is no wiggle, and it supports both sides of the workpiece.
- A zero-clearance fence curve gives cleaner cuts with less tear-out and lets you cut small pieces safely without them dropping into the saw.
- A clamped stop block can be placed anywhere along the fence on either side of the blade for repeated cuts, replacing the need for an adjustable stop block.
- Ramsey keeps the miter gauge for true miter cuts, but says you'll be surprised how often you use the sled for crosscuts.
Details Worth Noting
- Concrete instructions:
- Make the runners from quarter-inch plywood, hardboard, or Masonite, not solid lumber, because solid wood expands and contracts with humidity and makes the sled sticky or loose.
- Fit the runners so they are not too tight or too loose; expect trial and error and test by sliding the sled through the slot. Ramsey notes the runners should not sit flush all the way down in a T-track, but rather be positioned so the sled rides flush with the top of the table.
- Use three-quarter-inch plywood for the sled base (he uses 16 by 30 inches). Raise the runners slightly above the table surface with stacked coins, folded paper or cardboard, or nuts while gluing, and lower the blade out of the way.
- Glue the runners to the bottom of the sled with a modest amount of glue so it does not squeeze out. Ramsey lets it dry a little over an hour under weight. He decided not to use screws this time, saying a full glue bond across the runners should be sufficient, though screws are fine if you want them.
- Make the front and back fences from three-quarter-inch plywood strips about 2.5 inches wide, glued in pairs, then trim to match the sled width. Ramsey sets the fence about nine inches from each runner for a centered layout, noting the exact measurement isn't critical and depends on sled size.
- Make a partial cut through the sled base to create a zero-clearance kerf, remove the riving knife while doing so, and glue the rear fence in place, making sure the square doesn't rest against a tooth rather than the blade body.
- Attach the front fence with a single pivot screw, set about two inches forward of the blade, check with a square, then clamp and add screws to square it. Countersink all screws on the bottom so none stick up. Widening the screw hole into a slot allows fine adjustment.
- Make blade guard strips by cutting three pieces with a stop block, screw them together (not glued) so they can be replaced, and screw the strips to the sled as a finger-safety reminder.
- Finish the runners and sled bottom with paste wax: wipe on, let dry about 10 minutes, then buff off for easier sliding.
- Ramsey notes the sled works best sized for most table saws but can be modified to any size.
- Ramsey says the adjustable stop block he previously included is unnecessary, since a clamp and scrap of wood work as well.
- He does not glue the front fence so it can be adjusted to exact 90 degrees.
Bottom Line
A crosscut sled is a low-cost, easily built jig that delivers more stable and accurate crosscuts than a miter gauge, and its simplicity makes it a good first shop project.
