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Short Summary
Main recommendation: Use Kreg-style square-drive pocket screws for pocket hole joinery, and if trying generic screws, choose ones with a wide head that will seat in the pocket hole rather than boring through the wood. The speaker also recommends gluing pocket joints in addition to using screws, and drilling the pocket hole on the thinner board when joining boards of different thicknesses.
Key Points
- A wide head is the key requirement for any non-Kreg screw; without it, a regular screw is likely to bore all the way through the wood. Panhead screws or screws with a washer were suggested as alternatives.
- Pocket screws are self-tapping, so only one board needs a hole drilled, which makes alignment easier than with dowel joints.
- Square-drive (Robertson) heads are preferred because the driver stays seated and the screw does not slip off, which matters since the screw starts hidden inside the pocket.
- The K4 jig is cheaper, while he personally prefers the K5 for its front clamp-down handle and quicker, easier adjustment; mini jigs can handle situations where a full jig cannot be used.
- He found no evidence of a metric Kreg jig, though one commenter mentioned a conversion chart; he notes only the depth scale numbers would need conversion, and most users only use a couple of settings.
Details Worth Noting
- Concrete instructions:
- When using a non-Kreg screw, choose one with a wide head (such as a panhead or a screw used with a washer) so it rests in the pocket hole instead of drilling through the board.
- Set the drill bit collar so the bit just barely misses the plastic base of the jig; the speaker suggested a coin on the base as a method, and noted the jig's positive stops help position the screw in the center of the board edge.
- Glue the joint, and for end grain, pack glue into the grain first so the wood absorbs it and acts as a sealer, then glue the boards up normally.
- For boards of different thicknesses, drill the pocket hole on the thinner board and use a longer screw, since holding power is greater when screwing into the thicker board.
- To hide holes, use plugs made from the same wood, or use Bondo (auto body filler) only on painted pieces, since color matching is difficult on stained or clear-finished work.
- The stepped adjustment gauge that comes with the K5 was described as overcomplicated and not useful for the speaker, while the K4 has a gauge built into the base.
- He said wood putty or spackling probably isn't a good solution for deep pocket holes because it doesn't dry well in them.
- Pocket hole joinery is a limitation for stained or clear-finished pieces, and a different joinery method may be needed.
Bottom Line
Pocket screws work best when they are the square-drive type or a wide-headed alternative, and the joint should be glued, but the finish requirements may make pocket holes unsuitable for some projects.
