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Short Summary
Main recommendation: Remove all old caulk and residue from the tub and wall, then re-caulk the joint with 100% silicone caulk applied with a standard caulking gun, keeping the bead level and continuous. The video demonstrates this on a bathtub joint that had been leaking downstairs and had been recaulked about seven years earlier, showing signs that it needs to be redone again, with the homeowner having already removed the old caulk and done a heavy, uneven re-caulk himself.
Key Points
- Old caulk must be fully removed, because new caulk will not stick to a surface where old material remains.
- Cover the tub with a drop cloth and keep debris out of the drain, since scraped caulk or grout can clog it.
- Silicone is recommended for this job because it adheres well to non-porous surfaces, resists mold and mildew, and stays flexible as walls move with temperature changes.
- Use plenty of ventilation with a fan on, and wipe the joint down with a little alcohol before applying new caulk.
- Painter's tape is applied about a quarter inch from the joint on both the tub and the wall to keep the bead clean.
Details Worth Noting
- Concrete instructions:
- Cover the tub with a drop cloth or similar protection before scraping.
- Scrape out the old caulk with a tool that slices it, working on the tub edge and the wall, keeping the tool low and sliding it across the joint in multiple passes. Make sure no old caulk or grout residue remains.
- Wipe the area with a little alcohol, with the fan running for ventilation.
- Apply painter's tape about a quarter inch from the joint on the top edge and the wall.
- Buy 100% silicone caulk for a bathroom joint.
- Break the foil seal in the tube by pushing the wire from the caulking gun down the tube, pushing it back, then loading the tube into the gun.
- Cut the tube tip with a knife, starting with a small opening that can be enlarged later if needed.
- Hold the caulking gun level, not pitched to either side, and move steadily while squeezing the trigger. Do not squeeze too hard, move too slowly, or move too fast.
- Press the bead against the wall and smooth it with a finger along the joint, keeping even pressure without stopping.
- Pull off the painter's tape while the caulk is still wet, starting at the top and pulling away.
- Keep the caulk dry for 30 minutes and allow 24 hours to cure before using the tub or shower.
- The host notes that caulk for different gap sizes, interior or exterior use, and paintable or non-paintable options is available, but the bathroom recommendation here is 100% silicone.
- The presenter notes the caulking gun's handle includes a cutter, but he prefers cutting the tip with a knife himself, rather than it being something he tells Beth to do.
- Going a little heavy on the caulk, as in the original application, can result in an uneven look, so applying a controlled bead is emphasized.
Bottom Line
A clean, fully stripped joint and steady, level application of 100% silicone caulk, with 30 minutes before water contact and 24 hours to cure, is what makes the new seal last.
