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Short Summary
Main recommendation: Replace both the inner and outer tie-rod ends together when they are worn, since they control steering and toe alignment, and get the car aligned afterward. The video shows the full removal and installation process on a vehicle with about 300,000 miles, where the outer tie-rod end moved easily by hand and had play.
Key Points
- Worn tie-rod ends allow play in the steering linkage, and the presenter notes the outer end could be moved with one finger, showing the wear.
- Matching the thread count when removing and installing the outer tie-rod end preserves the approximate toe setting, so the car is less out of alignment and still safe to drive until a proper alignment is done.
- The inner tie-rod end is changed at the same time because it also showed looseness, and the boot must be replaced with it.
- Re-using the old castle nut is recommended over the small included nut because it is thicker and has more thread engagement for locking.
Details Worth Noting
- Concrete instructions:
- Tools needed: needle-nose pliers, a wrench (19mm or 3/4 inch), flathead screwdrivers, blue removable Loctite thread locker, torque wrench, breaker bar, hammer, rubber mallet, grease gun, and an inner tie-rod tool (the presenter says this can be rented free from AutoZone or Pep Boys).
- Straighten the cotter pin with needle-nose pliers and pull it out. Break the 19mm castle nut loose with a breaker bar, remove it, then reinstall it upside down on the stud and tap the knuckle with a rubber mallet or hammer to pop the outer tie-rod end out.
- Before removal, count the number of turns needed to unscrew the nut on the inner tie rod that sets alignment (the presenter took 20 turns) and install the new one with the same count.
- Remove the inner boot clamp by squeezing it with needle-nose pliers. To free the boot, bend the clamp slightly up with a flathead, spray silicone or grease under it, then pry the boot off.
- Open the sacrificial clip by inserting a screwdriver and twisting it. Replace a worn or damaged boot after inspecting it for cracks.
- Pop out the pin in the tie-rod end with a flathead screwdriver or tap it with a hammer and screwdriver, then unscrew the inner tie rod using the adapter and tool.
- Apply blue removable thread locker to the threads before installing the new tie rod. Thread the new outer end on by hand, then use the tie-rod tool and torque wrench to tighten to 70 ft-lbs (the vehicle spec in the video is 66 to 74 ft-lbs).
- Tap the pin back in with a screwdriver and hammer.
- Install the boot by sliding it onto the tube, then secure it with zip ties or stainless steel hose clamps. The presenter used zip ties from the bellows boot kit as a temporary solution, noting zip ties work well since the boot doesn't move much, though a metal clip is the permanent solution.
- Torque the castle nut to 46 ft-lbs, tightening until the torque wrench clicks, then insert a new cotter pin and bend it around the nut.
- Grease the new tie-rod end with the grease gun until the rubber boot expands, indicating adequate grease.
- Caveats: Zip ties become brittle over time, so they are only a temporary substitute for a metal boot clip. The new tie rod is slightly longer, which affects toe, so a professional alignment is required afterward.
- Torque values are specific to the presenter's vehicle; check your own vehicle's specification.
Bottom Line
Worn inner and outer tie-rod ends can be replaced in a single session with basic hand tools and a tie-rod tool, but the car must be aligned afterward.
