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Short Summary
Main recommendation: For most wood projects that need protection, use a clear topcoat such as lacquer (especially spray lacquer for small projects, which the speaker prefers); choose polyurethane for a durable, time-consuming option, and oil finishes only for decorative pieces that won't see heavy use. Steve says paint, in his opinion, is the strongest, most durable, most practical finish, but the video excludes it to focus on clear topcoats.
Key Points
- Finishing protects wood from scratches, moisture, spills, stains, and UV damage, and makes the grain and color pop; some shop projects like tool cabinets or workbenches need no finish at all.
- Layered finishes (polyurethane, lacquer, varnishes) sit on the surface and offer far more protection but can look plastic-like; oil finishes (linseed, tung) penetrate the grain, look more natural, but protect much less.
- Polyurethane is popular but slow, typically needing at least three coats over about three days; water-based poly dries faster but needs four or more coats and can look plastic-like, while oil-based poly has a warmer amber tone.
- Lacquer dries very quickly, fuses between coats so it needs no sanding between them, and is what most store-bought furniture uses.
- Danish oil blends polyurethane with tung or linseed oil, offering a middle ground in look and protection.
Details Worth Noting
- Concrete instructions:
- Sand with 120 grit, then 220 grit, and stop there; finer sanding is unnecessary.
- Remove all dust by vacuuming, wiping with a tack cloth, then a clean lint-free cloth such as an old t-shirt; wipe down with mineral spirits or paint thinner to reveal dents and dried glue.
- For poly, condition the brush by soaking the bristles in mineral spirits, then dip into finish up to the ferrule, press lightly on the can rim, and brush in long single strokes from edge to edge, avoiding back-and-forth brushing; work edges and verticals first, then the top surface. Pour finish into a separate container rather than using straight from the can.
- Let each poly coat dry per the can (about five hours or more for oil-based, less for water-based, varying with temperature and humidity), then lightly sand with 320 grit; sand the dust off before the next coat.
- Wipe-on poly: thin regular poly with mineral spirits, pour onto a rag, and wipe on; expect more coats.
- Lacquer brushing: brush a little faster than poly, never back and forth; skip missed spots for the next coat; a backlight helps; clean brushes by wrapping in a lacquer-thinner-moistened rag and sealing in a plastic bag; lightly sand before the final coat.
- Spray lacquer: spray in back-and-forth motion, not too close or too slow to avoid drips.
- After about 24 hours of lacquer cure, lightly smooth with fine steel wool or a gray synthetic scrubbing pad for a satin finish.
- Linseed oil: wipe on, let sit 5 to 10 minutes, wipe off; dry a couple hours, lightly sand, apply a second coat, then dry overnight; two coats is the maximum needed.
- Tung oil: same wipe-on, wipe-off method, but dry 24 hours between coats and expect four or five coats.
- The speaker says spray lacquer is his go-to and favorite choice for small projects, and that a respirator rated for organic vapors and solvent filtering should be used due to lacquer's strong odor.
- Lacquer can cost more than other finishes, especially spray cans, and some people find lacquered finishes look artificial.
- Oil finishes are not recommended for dining tables or desks under heavy use; they suit picture frames and jewelry boxes.
- Water resistance: tung oil resists water better than linseed oil, but if water resistance is the main concern the speaker suggests using poly or lacquer instead.
- Oil-based poly gives a warmer amber look that many people like; water-based poly looks clearer and can resemble plastic.
Bottom Line
Pick the finish by how much protection and effort you need: lacquer for speed and smoothness, polyurethane for durability with more patience, and oil only where a natural look matters more than protection.
